21 - Yorkshire Dales : Analysis: Landscape Attributes & Opportunities

Analysis supporting Statements of Environmental Opportunity

The following analysis section focuses on the landscape attributes and opportunities for this NCA.

Further analysis on ecosytem services for this NCA is contained in the Analysis: Ecosytem Services section.

Landscape attributes

Underlying geology of international interest gives rise to an upland landscape of open moorland ridges divided by broad pastoral dales, each with its own distinctive character; strong landform of flat hilltops, stepped profiles to valleys, with igneous intrusions of dolerite (Whin Sill) forming striking outcrops and waterfalls.

Justification for selection:

• Wide, open landscapes with distant views giving a real sense of wilderness and remoteness especially the less visited moors of the northern areas.
• Upland heath covers 14 per cent of the NCA (33,946 ha) and blanket bog covers 22 per cent (52,734 ha).
• 35 per cent is notified as SPA because of its nationally important assemblages of upland breeding birds.
• The high fells in the western area of the NCA are dominated by the very popular three peaks of Ingleborough, Pen-y-ghent and Whernside.
• Distinctive outcrops of gritstone are often found on the moorland tops which break up the skyline and add interest to an otherwise featureless landscape.
• The mosaic of moorland edge grassland and woodland provides valuable habitat for the UK’s most southerly population of the iconic black grouse.

Wide, glaciated valleys, with distinctive field boundary patterns, mosaics of grassland habitats and field barns.

• Valleys show a good cross-section of the glacial history of the area showing the classic wide and deep ‘U’ shape with some valleys having limestone outcrops running along the ‘shoulders of the valleys. Good examples of limestone outcrops include those near Chapel-le-Dale near Ingleton.
• The lush fertile valley bottoms contrast sharply with the rougher, more marginal, grassland on higher ground.

Characteristic stone buildings and farmsteads together with a strong pattern of drystone walls which run from the valley bottoms to the high tops.

• The typical Yorkshire Dales buildings are built using local stone, commonly limestone in the south and west, and sandstone in the north.
• The small field barns tucked into field corners are an iconic feature of many Dales’ landscapes, particularly Swaledale and Wensleydale. Estimates suggest there over 8,000 stone field barns in the Yorkshire Dales National Park alone, and many more in Upper Nidderdale.
• Small villages are clustered on the valley floors often around river crossing points and main transport routes.
• Drystone walls run up from the valley bottoms to the high tops, often snaking their way around limestone outcrops and cliffs. Some of these walls date from medieval times and are of great historical importance. In many areas, both the valley bottoms and the higher in-bye and allotment land have distinctive regular patterns of drystone walls. The walls form very large rectilinear enclosures on the higher fell tops with smaller enclosures in the dales and irregular patterns around settlements.

Dramatic geological features of limestone and Millstone Grit, including outcrops, caves, gorges, waterfalls and limestone pavements.

• The NCA contains a diverse range of geological features illustrating many different phenomena and processes, and has some of the most important geological sites in the UK.
• The NCA is separated from the North Pennines by the Stainmore Trough faults and from the Southern Pennines by the Craven Fault, which gives rise to some dramatic features such as Malham Cove and Giggleswick Scar.
• Much of the south of the NCA has a classic glacio-karst landscape. It has some of the UK’s best potholes and cave systems such as the iconic Gaping Gill pothole near Ingleborough. Some of the limestone caves in the NCA are of national importance for swarming and hibernating bats.
• Dramatic illustrations of glacial deposition such as the Norber Erratics (boulders of Silurian greywacke sandstone deposited by glaciers on younger strata of limestone which has eroded to form small plinths where protected by the boulders) and the Wensleydale and Ribblesdale drumlin swarms (small rounded hills of glacial till).
• The area’s limestone pavements are of international importance for geology and nature conservation. 50 per cent of the UK’s limestone pavement is found in the Yorkshire Dales. Around 80 per cent is designated as Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI); large sections are designated as Special Areas of Conservation (SAC) under the EC Habitats Directive, such as Scar Close in the Ingleborough Limestones Complex SAC. They also receive additional protection through Limestone Pavement Orders which prevent their removal. A variety of rare and scarce plants, including rare ferns, are found growing within the grykes of the limestone pavement, which have their own micro-climate.
• The southern and western areas of the NCA have some of the finest geological examples of Carboniferous Limestone outcrops and cliffs in the UK. Probably the best known are Malham Cove and Kilnsey Crag for climbing and Gaping Gill and Alum Pot for caving.
• There are some dramatic features concealed in the limestone areas: impressive limestone gorges where water has carved a passage for thousands of years, such as the River Twiss and River Doe near Ingleton and the impressive Gordale Scar near Malham, and waterfalls such as Thornton Force, Ingleton. Gorges have also formed in a range of other rock types such as the Strid (Millstone Grit).
• The Yoredale Group consists of soft shales, hard sandstones and limestones, giving rise to the stepped profiles of the dale sides, as in Wharfedale and Wensleydale, and the dramatic profiles of Ingleborough and Pen-y-ghent.

Evidence of historical land use spanning from the Neolithic and bronze-age to lead-mining activities of the 18th and 19th centuries.

• The whole area is very important from an archaeological perspective as it retains a good record of land use over a long time-period. Earliest records relate to use of caves by prehistoric man, such as at Victoria and Kinsey Cave, and provide nationally important records of the earliest human re-colonisation of north-west Europe after the last glacial maximum. The area contains good examples of iron-age and bronze-age settlements, medieval field systems and ridge and furrow, with good examples in Wharfedale and Upper Ribblesdale.
• There are 376 Scheduled Monuments, the largest being the multi-period lead mines and processing works and 20th century barytes mill on Grassington Moor, which cover 203 ha. The Gunnerside Gill lead mines and ore workings are among the most impressive anywhere and cover 32 ha. In contrast to these large scale monuments, there are many smaller sites such as ring cairns and other earthworks, right down to cup and ring marked stones.

Remnant semi-natural broadleaved woodland on valley sides and in cloughs, contrasting with blocks of conifers in some dales.

• The remaining semi-natural woodland in the NCA is very important, but only covers a tiny proportion of the area. Total woodland covers 10,624 ha, only 4 per cent of the area, with only 1 per cent of the NCA covered by native broadleaf woodland (2,432 ha). Many of the native woodland fragments are on inaccessibly steep ledges and gill sides, which have saved them from cultivation and grazing by livestock. Pot hole entrances and shake holes often have trees like rowan and ash growing in them, safe from browsing.
• Scattered conifer plantations punctuate some valleys, often in regular-shaped large blocks that stand out from the surrounding landscape. While of limited wildlife value in many cases, some of the conifer plantations in Wensleydale, Upper Langstrothdale and the Cumbrian Dales support red squirrel populations.

Flower-rich hay meadows and in the valley bottoms enclosed by drystone walls and extensive areas of calcareous grassland.

• Flower-rich traditional hay meadows are an iconic feature of the NCA, filling the valley bottoms with swathes of colour in summer. The meadows are of great value for wildlife, not only for the rare plants to be found in them (such as globeflower, lady’s mantle species and spignel), but also for the invertebrates that come to feed on the plentiful nectar supply (such as bees and butterflies) and bird species that nest in them in spring (such as curlew and grey partridge).
• The Yorkshire Dales NCA has nearly 10 per cent (157 ha) of the UK’s upland hay meadows. Many are of international importance and are protected within the North Pennine Dales Meadows SAC.
• Perhaps less famous, but equally important for biodiversity, are the calcareous grasslands of the area. Generally grazed, rather than cut for hay, these rare grasslands are found on shallow, lime-rich soils, and contain an exceptionally diverse number of plant species, including rare flora such as carline thistle and bird’s eye primrose.

Dramatic topography makes a defining contribution to sense of place; from high mountain summits to meandering river courses, waterfalls and gorges.

• The most famous mountains are The Three Peaks; consisting of Ingleborough, Whernside and Pen y gent. The three summits offer far-reaching views to the Irish Sea and over the Settle-Carlisle railway, and are visited by over 250,000 people each year. The area has in the past suffered serious erosion problems on access routes, but a lot of work was undertaken in 1990s and 2000s to address problems and improve the stability of the routes.
• Considering that the NCA has a relatively low density of water courses and water bodies, they make a disproportionately significant contribution to the sense of place. The smaller limestone rivers are very distinctive; with their dramatic waterfalls, gorges and exposed limestone beds that run dry in times of prolonged low rainfall. The larger rivers, bordered by settlements, woodland and large estates, offer dramatic vistas and leisure opportunities. These, combined with reservoirs and the natural lakes of Malham Tarn and Semerwater, provide a strong draw for large numbers of tourists and have inspired many artists over the years, including JMW Turner.
• Rivers and streams have a large number of historic stone crossings associated with them, including fords, pack horse bridges and clapper bridges. Bow Bridge near Askrigg is one of the oldest surviving bridges; it was thought to have been built in the early 13th century.
• The water bodies in the NCA are generally of good water quality and support a number of rare species such as the native white-clawed crayfish, otter and freshwater mussel.

A strong sense of tranquillity and remoteness, low levels of intrusion and light pollution.

• The sense of tranquillity and remoteness created by the open, sparsely populated landscape and far-ranging views is enhanced by low levels of intrusion (96 per cent of the NCA “undisturbed” according the CPRE). Most of the area has the lowest classification of light pollution at night and is classified as “dark” by CPRE.

Landscape opportunities

• Conserve characteristic historic structures (such as field barns, farmsteads and villages of local stone, historic bridges and drystone walls networks), and encourage the use of traditional local materials and techniques, for the benefit of the landscape, local economy, traditional skills and wildlife associated with the structures such as bats and barn owls.
• Protect the area’s rich and diverse archaeology; from Mesolithic, bronze- age and iron-age earthworks and field systems, through to lead mines from various periods and the 19th century Settle-Carlisle railway, including the Ribblehead Viaduct.
• Protect the area’s high levels of tranquillity, sense of remoteness, far- reaching views and dark night skies, by considering impacts on tranquillity of potential development within, on and just outside the area’s boundary.
• Protect, manage and enhance the good rights of way network, linking with iconic sites and interpretation material, allowing people the freedom to explore the area, increase their understanding of it and enjoy its tranquillity and wildlife.
• Manage and enhance existing broadleaved woodland. Conifer plantations could be enhanced for biodiversity, recreation and visual amenity by restocking of some areas with native tree species and/or management for the benefit of red squirrels.
• Encourage the maintenance of traditional land management practices, particularly where of benefit to the environment, such as hay-making, shepherding, hefting, drystone walling, hedge-laying and coppicing.
• Protect, and encourage sympathetic management and enhancement of moorland habitats to improve their value for: biodiversity, flood alleviation, clean water supply and carbon sequestration.
• Protect, manage and enhance existing valuable grassland habitats, particularly grazed calcareous grassland, traditional hay meadows and flower-rich road verges.
• Protect and manage geological features and associated habitats for their expression of geological processes and associated rare flora and fauna species such as baneberry on limestone pavements, and peregrines on limestone cliffs and outcrops.
• Plan for climate change mitigation and adaptation in upland habitats, in particular restoration of peatland habitats and of eroding soils.
• Plan for extension and creation of broadleaved woodlands in ways that: are appropriate to the landscape and its wildlife and archaeology; maximise benefits to biodiversity, flood alleviation and water quality; and, connect existing fragmented areas of woodland. Riparian and gill woodland, in particular, may deliver the greatest benefits.