National Character Area 10

North Pennines - Key Facts & Data

Landscape and nature conservation designations section contains a map

Note that numbers and figures in the body of the text are based on the 2014 profiles, unless otherwise stated. The maps contain live frequently updated datasets.

188,488 ha, or 88 per cent, of the NCA lies within the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB). Less than 1 per cent (46 ha) lies within the Yorkshire Dales National Park (Natural England, 2011).


Designated nature conservation sites

The NCA includes the following statutory nature conservation designations (Natural England, Special Protection Areas; Special Area of Conservation; Ramsars; National Nature Reserves; Sites of Special Scientific Interest and Local Nature Reserves, 2021):

Please note: (i) Designated areas may overlap (ii) all figures are cut to Mean High Water Line, designations that span coastal/marine areas below this line will not be included.

Condition of designated sites
All designated sites within England are covered by Sites of Scientific Interest (SSSI) units. The condition to these SSSI units within the NCA are as follows (Natural England, Sites of Special Scientific Interest Units, 2021; 2023):



Landscape and nature conservation designations map for NCA10

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Landform, geology and soils section contains a map

Note that numbers and figures in the body of the text are based on the 2014 profiles, unless otherwise stated. The maps contain live frequently updated datasets.

Elevation

Elevation ranges from 45 metres above sea level at to a maximum of 891 metres at Cross Fell, one of a number of massive moorland summits on the broad ridge on the western edge of the NCA. The average elevation of the landscape is 404 metres above sea level (Natural England, 2010).

Landform and process

An upland landscape of high moorland ridges divided by broad pastoral dales – the high summit ridge of Cross Fell (891m) in the west falling in a dramatic escarpment to the Eden Valley. Long, relatively low sandstone and limestone scars are prominent features in many places (North Pennines Countryside Character Area Description).

Bedrock geology

The geology of the North Pennines is defined by the Alston Block, a structural unit consisting of a succession of Carboniferous sedimentary rocks dipping gently eastwards towards the North Sea. It is bounded to the north by the Stublick Fault System along the Tyne Gap, on the west by the Pennine Fault System along the Pennine escarpment, and on the south by the Lunedale Fault System. On its eastern margin the area adjoins the Durham Coalfield.

Older, mainly Ordovician age, mudstones and volcanic rocks which underlie the Carboniferous rocks crop out along the foot of the Pennine escarpment and in a small inlier in Upper Teesdale.

Carboniferous rocks mainly comprise the Yoredale Series, a succession of limestones, sandstones and shales with a few very thin coals, which produce distinctive terraced features on many hillsides.

Many hilltops coincide with the outcrop of sandstone beds giving them characteristic flat tops.

A large horizontal body of igneous rock known as Whin Sill is intruded into the Carboniferous rocks. The dolerite of the Whin Sill outcrops along the Pennine escarpment and in Teesdale, such as at Holwick Scars, Cronkley Fell, and High Cup Nick, which are marked by striking dark, columnar-jointed crags.

Intrusion of the hot magma that formed Whin Sill altered the composition of the adjacent rocks. Locally in Upper Teesdale, wide areas of limestone were baked to form a coarse-grained marble, in its weathered form known as ‘sugar limestone’, which supports an internationally important relic alpine flora.

Numerous mineral veins which carry ores of lead, zinc and, in a few places, copper, many of which have been mined in the past. Associated with the metal ores are minerals such as fluorite, barytes, and witherite. Numerous marks left on the landscape of former mineral working including hushes, spoil heaps and quarries (British Geological Survey 2006).

Superficial deposits

Glacial deposits mantle some of the valley slopes and hilltops partially obscuring the Carboniferous rocks. Peat blanket bog covers extensive areas of the higher ground on the internationally important Moorhouse National Nature Reserve (British Geological Survey, 2006).

Designated geological sites

The NCA includes the following geological sites (Natural England, Geological and Mixed Sites of Special Scientific Interest, 2021):

wdt_ID NCA_ID NAME NCAAreaHa Interest type Area (ha) 2021 Percent of NCA (2021) Count
2361NORTH NORTHUMBERLAND COASTAL PLAIN37,669.6Geological6.80.01
2371NORTH NORTHUMBERLAND COASTAL PLAIN37,669.6Mixed1,029.52.75
2382NORTHUMBERLAND SANDSTONE HILLS72,694.6Geological45.40.14
2393CHEVIOT FRINGE51,591.3Geological17.10.02
2404CHEVIOTS36,487.9Geological165.00.52
2414CHEVIOTS36,487.9Mixed3,488.99.61
2425BORDER MOORS AND FORESTS127,155.9Geological85.70.18
2435BORDER MOORS AND FORESTS127,155.9Mixed35.80.01
2446SOLWAY BASIN98,350.4Geological7.20.02
2456SOLWAY BASIN98,350.4Mixed5,569.25.74

Soils and Agriculture Classification

This NCA has 9 main soilscape types; blanket bog peat soils, covering 34 per cent of the NCA; slowly permeable wet very acid upland soils with a peaty surface (25 per cent); slowly permeable seasonally wet acid loamy and clayey soils (25 per cent); freely draining slightly acid loamy soils (4 per cent); freely draining very acid sandy and loamy soils (3 per cent); very acid loamy upland soils with a wet peaty surface (3 per cent); slowly permeable seasonally wet slightly acid but base-rich loamy and clayey soils (2 per cent); freely draining acid loamy soils over rock (1 per cent); and raised bog peat soils(1 per cent).

Much of this NCA, 67 per cent, contains soils with a high carbon content (20 to 50 per cent), including the deep blanket bog peat soils, the slowly permeable wet very acid upland soils with a peaty surface, and the very acid sandy soils that may have organic and peaty topsoils.

On higher ground the rock is covered by a thick layer of peat which, in turn, rests upon glacial clay. In the higher, wetter, western areas this appears as blanket bog, while in the lower and drier east it supports heather moorland or acidic grassland. Where the limestone breaks through, in extensive scars or along deeply incised river valleys, richer soils have developed, supporting a varied lime-loving vegetation; in the far west of the area, above Brough, the limestone outcrops as pavement.

A particularly significant geological feature of Upper Teesdale, towards the southern part of the area, is an intrusion of the igneous Whin Sill into the limestone, the result of which Now the baking of the limestone into a type of marble. This has itself become weathered into the so-called “sugar limestone” soil which supports the unique Teesdale flora.

Another offshoot of the geology of the area has resulted in an interesting flora associated with river alluvium in the South Tyne system. The Alston Block lies within the North Pennine Orefield, from which lead, zinc, cadmium and copper were produced in the past. These mining activities have resulted in soils contaminated with these ‘heavy metals’; where they occur along the South Tyne and the East and West Allens, they support populations of heavy metal resistant flora (‘metallophytes’). Areas of spoil in the vicinity of mines also support elements of this flora (North Pennines Natural Area Profile, National Soils Resources Institute). Soilscape Maps.

The main grades of agricultural land in the NCA are broken down as follows (as a proportion of total land area) (Natural England, Provisional Agricultural Land Classification, 2019):


Landform, geology and soils map for NCA10

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Key waterbodies and catchments section contains a map

Note that numbers and figures in the body of the text are based on the 2014 profiles, unless otherwise stated. The maps contain live frequently updated datasets.

Major rivers/canals

The following major rivers/canals (by length) have been identified in this NCA (Natural England, data informing the 2014 National Character Area Profiles, 2010):

wdt_ID REF_CODE NAME_1 Name Length (km) SumOfShape_Length
11NORTH NORTHUMBERLAND COASTAL PLAINRiver Aln7.67,587.2
21NORTH NORTHUMBERLAND COASTAL PLAINRiver Coquet5.55,516.0
31NORTH NORTHUMBERLAND COASTAL PLAINWhiteadder Water2.92,904.9
410NORTH PENNINESBlack Burn11.911,853.4
510NORTH PENNINESCroglin Water10.010,042.3
610NORTH PENNINESCrowdundle Beck4.34,337.4
710NORTH PENNINESDevil's Water20.520,464.6
810NORTH PENNINESHarwood Beck9.79,740.2
910NORTH PENNINESRiver Allen4.94,889.0
1010NORTH PENNINESRiver Derwent15.315,268.4

Please note: other significant rivers (by volume) may also occur. Tidal stretches of rivers are not included, which may include some major rivers.

A number of main rivers and their tributaries have their headwaters in the NCA. Most drain north or eastwards from the area. Some short tributaries feed into the River Eden to the west of the NCA. In addition a number of reservoirs are scattered throughout the dales and moorland margins. Reservoirs within the NCA include Cow Green, Baldershead, Selset, Derwent, Burnhope, Smiddy Shaw, Nowkerley, Hury and Grassholme.

Water quality

Nitrate Vulnerable Zones (NVZs) are areas designated as being at risk from agricultural nitrate pollution. These can impact surface water (waterbodies and waterways located above ground) and groundwater (water bodies and waterways located below ground).

Waterbodies such as lakes can also be designated as “eutrophic waters” if the enrichment of the waterbody by nitrate pollution causes accelerated growth of algae, impacting the quality of the water and the balance of organisms within it.

The following NVZs are located within the NCA (Environment Agency, Nitrate Vulnerable Zones Designations, 2021):

Water framework directive

River basin management plans cover river basin districts and describe the challenges that threaten the water environment and how these challenges can be managed and funded. The plans include the classification of water quality of surface waters and ground waters.



Click on the Water Framework Directive layers on the below map to view the corresponding river names.

Key waterbodies and catchments map for NCA10

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Trees and woodlands section contains a map

Note that numbers and figures in the body of the text are based on the 2014 profiles, unless otherwise stated. The maps contain live frequently updated datasets.

Total woodland cover

Ancient woodland is any area that has been wooded continuously since at least 1600 AD. National Forest Inventory (NFI) woodland includes all forests and woodlands (0.5 hectares and over). The total woodland cover within the NCA is as follows (Forestry Commission, National Forest Inventory, 2020; 2023; Natural England, Ancient Woodland, 2021; 2024; this does not consider Natural England’s ‘Ancient Woodland – Revised (England) – Completed Counties’ data as this is being updated in tranches and no full dataset is yet available):

Distribution and size of woodland and trees in the landscape

Tree cover is generally sparse. In places there are extensive coniferous plantations on the moorland ridges. Semi-natural woodland is largely restricted to river banks, watercourses and minor valleys and gills mainly of the Tees, South Tyne, Allens, Devil’s Water and Derwent in the middle / upper reaches of the dales. Ash and alder-ash woodlands are found on the limestones, and oak / birch woodlands on acidic soils. Hedgerow trees are abundant and the lower dales landscape is well wooded with semi- natural woodlands in ravines, gorges, scattered farm woodlands, shelter belts and coniferous plantations. Wet woodland occurs on poorly drained or seasonally waterlogged soils, often along streams and flushes, in peaty hollows, and as successional habitat on fens and bogs (North Pennines Natural Area Profile).

Woodland types

A statistical breakdown of the area and type of woodland found across the NCA is detailed below (Forestry Commission, National Forest Inventory, 2020; 2023):

Area and proportion of ancient woodland and planted ancient woodland sites (PAWS) within the NCA (Natural England, Ancient Woodland, 2021; 2024):


Trees and woodlands map for NCA10

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Boundary features and patterns

Note that numbers and figures in the body of the text are based on the 2014 profiles, unless otherwise stated.

Boundary features

Arable fields and pastures of the lower dales, generally enclosed by 1750, are regular, relatively broad and divided by hedgerows and drystone walls. Hedgerow trees are abundant. The middles and upper reaches are more pastoral in character with semi-improved and unimproved pastures and hay meadows bounded by drystone walls (North Pennines Countryside Character Area description; Countryside Quality Counts, 2003).

Field patterns

Middle and upper dales, mostly subject to enclosure from the 17th century, maintain long-standing divisions of in-bye and out-bye leading out to extensive grazing rights on the adjoining moorland. Heads of dales contain distinctive, patterned small enclosures, some reflecting 16th to 18th century ‘miner-farmer’ smallholdings: Upper Weardale, Teesdale, Allendale and South Tyne Valley. Moorland summits and plateau were used as common grazing pasture, with extensive enclosure in the late 18th to mid 19th century, but 27 per cent remains common land (North Pennines Countryside Character Area description; Countryside Quality Counts, 2003).

Agriculture section contains a map

Note that numbers and figures in the body of the text are based on the 2014 profiles, unless otherwise stated. The maps contain live frequently updated datasets.

The following tables provide the most recently available statistics from Defra on agriculture within the NCA.

Farm type

The following farm types are located within this NCA (Defra, Structure of the agricultural industry in England and the UK at June, 2025):

Farm size

The following table outlines the sizes of farms within the NCA (Defra, Structure of the agricultural industry in England and the UK at June, 2025):

Farm ownership

The following table outlines the ownership of farms within the NCA (Defra, Structure of the agricultural industry in England and the UK at June, 2025):

Land use

The following table outlines the types of agricultural land use within the NCA (Defra, Structure of the agricultural industry in England and the UK at June, 2025):

Livestock numbers

The following livestock are farmed within the NCA (Defra, Structure of the agricultural industry in England and the UK at June, 2025):

Farm labour

The following table outlines the types of farm labour within the NCA (Defra, Structure of the agricultural industry in England and the UK at June, 2025):

Please note: (i) Some of the Census data are estimated by Defra so may not present a precise assessment of agriculture within this area (ii) Data refers to commercial holdings only (iii) Data includes land outside of the NCA where it belongs to holdings whose centre point is recorded as being within the NCA.



Note that the below map only shows agri-environment scheme coverage, and not other schemes.

Agriculture map for NCA10

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Key habitats and species section contains a map

Note that numbers and figures in the body of the text are based on the 2014 profiles, unless otherwise stated. The maps contain live frequently updated datasets.

Habitat distribution/coverage

The higher moorland summits and plateau in the west are dominated by blanket bog of heather, sphagnum and cotton grass and the drier ridges of the east are covered with heather and grass moorland. Where grazing pressure has been high the heather has been replaced by ‘white moor’ of acidic grassland and in places by bracken.

One of the most important habitats is limestone grassland, which contains a high diversity of plants including an unusual number of rare species. The sugar limestone grasslands of Upper Teesdale are particularly important because they include arctic-alpine / alpine flora. The area is also important for the presence of juniper scrub.

The species rich hay meadows of the North Pennines contain a large number of rare and local species. These hay meadows include some typical woodland flora and are thought to be remnants of historical woodland found in the area. Forty per cent of the UK’s upland hay meadows can be found in the North Pennines. Calamarian grasslands, open or sparse turf that occurs on weathered mineral debris with high levels of heavy metals present, occur on spoil or river gravels where pollution from mining has occurred.

Semi-natural woodlands are found typically in minor valleys and ghylls, and along watercourses. Ash and alder-ash woodland can be found on limestone and oak- birch woodlands on acidic soils. Many are grazed by livestock and are in decline (North Pennines Natural Area Profile).

Key Habitats

The NCA contains the following areas of key main habitats, as mapped by the national Priority Habitat Inventory (Natural England, Priority Habitats Inventory, 2021; 2024; Natural England, Wood Pasture and Parkland, 2020). Note: lakes and ponds were not included in 2021 data:






Key habitats and species map for NCA10

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Settlement and development patterns section contains a map

Note that numbers and figures in the body of the text are based on the 2014 profiles, unless otherwise stated. The maps contain live frequently updated datasets.

Settlement patterns

Small villages, hamlets and clusters of small farms, built of millstone grit or Carboniferous sandstone and with roofs of stone flag, are dispersed along the dale floors, their locations linked to the early development of mining. Isolated farms are located along the moorland margins. Pele towers, bastles (fortified farmsteads) and large farmhouses are located in defensive positions within the valleys, with a particularly high concentration of bastles occurring in Allendale and the South Tyne Valley (North Pennines Countryside Character Area description; Countryside Quality Counts, 2003).

Main settlements

The main settlements are: Allendale, Wolsingham, Stanhope, Middleton-in- Teesdale and Alston. The total estimated population for this NCA (derived from ONS 2001 census data) is: 13,978 (North Pennines Countryside Character Area description; Countryside Quality Counts, 2003, Natural England, 2012).

Local vernacular and building materials

A high proportion of the buildings in the area are characterised by simple architectural detailing and the use of local sandstone which provides a high degree of visual unity and reveals a close connection with the underlying land. Roofs are traditionally of stone slate, although Welsh or Cumbrian slate is common on later buildings. Many villages contain more modern housing, often constructed of brick. The settlement characteristics of the dales are strongly influenced by land tenure. A large proportion of the area is managed by estates and the whitewashed buildings of the Raby estate in Teesdale are particularly distinctive (North Pennines Countryside Character Area description; Countryside Quality Counts, 2003).

Settlement and development patterns map for NCA10

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Key historic sites and features section contains a map

Note that numbers and figures in the body of the text are based on the 2014 profiles, unless otherwise stated. The maps contain live frequently updated datasets.

Origin of historic features

Mesolithic hunters may have begun the process of woodland clearance, and Neolithic farmer-hunters and Bronze Age settlers extended the process which, combined with climate change, led to development of the moors and peat bogs.

Bronze Age to Romano-British burial mounds and field systems, now on moorland, are visible reminders of the intensity of settlement in the late prehistoric period with examples at Barningham Moor, Hope Moor, Bowes Moor and Cotherstone Moor.

Transhumance activities within the wooded frontier zone of the Roman Empire led to the development of tracks and droves – a mixture of cattle rearing and cereal production that Now still practiced in the medieval period. The Romans mined lead at Brough. A number of temporary camps, signal stations and settlements can be found in the landscape.

More extensive lead mines were opened from the medieval period onwards, drawing settlement from the valley floors to the higher orefields and reaching a peak in the mid 19th century. Purpose built villages, for example Allenheads, Nenthead and Middleton-in-Teesdale, emerged, importing the terraced housing patterns of the industrial townscapes, along with a wide variety of ‘squatter’ settlements complete with small agricultural plots.

Upper Weardale, Teesdale, Allendale and South Tyne Valley were populated with vaccaries (cattle ranches) in 12th and 13th centuries, many later examples of these and also medieval parks becoming subdivided as farms and hamlets from 15th century. There Now a further increase in farming from the 17th century, connected to the lead industry.

The remains of lead (and silver) mining and processing are extensive, reflecting centuries of seasonal and concerted year-round industrial activity. These include spoil heaps, shafts and adits as well as mine buildings, Nowhing floors, levels, wheel houses and dramatic scars left by hushing (Draft Historic Profile, North Pennines Countryside Character Area description, Countryside Quality Counts).

Designated historic assets

The NCA includes the following designated historic assets (Historic England, National Heritage List for England, 2021; 2024):

Listed buildings

The NCA includes the following listed buildings (Historic England, National Heritage List for England, 2021; 2024):

Heritage at Risk Register

The NCA includes the following designated historic assets listed within the Heritage at Risk Register (Historic England, Heritage at Risk Register, 2021; 2023):



Key historic sites and features map for NCA10

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Recreation and access section contains a map

Note that numbers and figures in the body of the text are based on the 2014 profiles, unless otherwise stated. The maps contain live frequently updated datasets.

Public access

The following areas of public access for recreation are located within this NCA (Natural England, 2021; National Trust, 2021):


Please note: Public access areas may overlap.
The following linear routes or public access for recreation are located within this NCA (Natural England, 2021; Sustrans; 2021):

Recreation and access map for NCA10

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Experiential qualities

Note that numbers and figures in the body of the text are based on the 2014 profiles, unless otherwise stated.

Tranquillity

Based on the CPRE map of tranquillity (2006) it appears that relatively low scores for tranquillity tend to occur only along the main transport routes in this NCA, particularly along the A66 from Brough to Bowes, and around the larger villages

A breakdown of tranquillity values for this NCA are detailed in the table below (CPRE, Tranquillity Map, 2006):

Dark skies

Light pollution is a generic term referring to artificial light that shines where it is neither wanted nor needed, and can impact on people’s experience of the countryside within the NCAs. CPRE host an interactive map, depicting the light pollution and dark skies within the NCA.

Intrusion

The 2007 Intrusion Map (CPRE) shows the extent to which rural landscapes are ‘intruded on’ from urban development, noise (primarily traffic noise), and other sources of visual and auditory intrusion. This shows that the disturbed areas of land are found along the A66 route between Brough and Bowes and around larger villages such as Stanhope. Quarries and mines (active and inactive) are also a source of intrusion within this NCA. A breakdown of intrusion values for this NCA is detailed in the table below.

A breakdown of intrusion values for this NCA is detailed in the table below (CPRE, Intrusion Map, 2007):

Notable trends from the 1960s to 2007 are the slight increase in disturbed land and the slight decrease in undisturbed land. It is also notable that there Now no change in the percentage of urban areas between the 1960s and 2007.