43 - Lincolnshire Wolds : Description

Physical and functional links to other National Character Areas

The Lincolnshire Wolds is a long, narrow; north-south aligned National Character Area (NCA) stretching between the Humber and the Wash. It is situated on the highest land in Lincolnshire, giving long views and strong visual links with adjacent NCAs. To the west there are views over the Central Lincolnshire Vale towards Lincoln Cathedral and the wider Trent Valley, and to the east of the Lincolnshire coast and marshes and the North Sea. To the north the Wolds subside to the Humber Estuary and to the south lie the extensive Fens.

Sixty-two per cent of the NCA is designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), which also extends into the Central Lincolnshire Vale NCA and the Lincolnshire Coast and Marshes NCA.

The area is separated into the ‘Chalk Wolds’ to the north with geological chalk formations extending into the Yorkshire Wolds, and the ‘Wolds Scarp, Ridges and Valleys’ further to the south and west.

Springs and chalk streams are characteristic of the area and the headwaters of several rivers, including the Bain, Waring and Lymn, rise in the Wolds. The Great Eau and Waithe Beck drain to the North Sea via the Lincolnshire Coast and Marshes NCA. The River Bain drains south through the Central Lincolnshire Vale NCA where it meets the River Witham, while the River Lymn drains south through the southern edge of the Lincolnshire Coast and Marshes NCA to the Great Steeping River. There is a large chalk aquifer underlying the Lincolnshire Wolds which also extends beyond it. This is a regional resource which is a major supplier of water for industry, irrigation and domestic supplies.

No major settlements lie within the Lincolnshire Wolds although several A roads link the surrounding market towns and the popular coastal destinations to the east. The railway network also acts as a link, particularly in the northern part of the NCA. Here the distinctive Humber Bridge crosses the Humber Estuary where the Wolds meet the Humber Estuary NCA at Barton-upon-Humber.

A number of historic routes traverse the higher ground of the high Wolds. More modern trails such as the Viking Way long-distance footpath link to the Humber, extending through the area towards Rutland. The National Cycle Network’s Hull to Harwich cycle route also crosses the Lincolnshire Wolds.

Although the NCA is generally unwooded in character, there are some significant areas of woodland, particularly on the lower-lying clay soils overlapping with the adjacent Lincolnshire Coast and Marshes NCA. A number of estates within the NCA are well wooded, including the one at Brocklesby.

The Lincolnshire Wolds today

The Lincolnshire Wolds NCA is predominantly a rolling landscape of open, rural character. The distinctive west-facing chalk escarpment is a dominant feature. Steep-sided dry valleys, open plateau hilltops, strong escarpments, long, open views and planted beech woods also contribute strongly to the distinctive sense of place. Much of the NCA is nationally designated as an AONB for its natural beauty and tranquillity.

Lying mid-way between Lincoln and the East Coast, the chalks Wolds rise to over 150 m along their western edge, the highest point being at Normanby le Wold. The underlying Lower Cretaceous strata are revealed in the bottoms of the valleys and at the foot of the scarp slope. These strata include ironstone, limestone and sandstone which creates a hummocky landscape punctuated by springs and isolated landslips, for example at Nettleton and Hainton. To the south-east, the overlying glacial till creates a rounded edge broken only by the deep valleys at Louth and Calceby. Towards the southern end of the Wolds, the chalk cap has been removed to reveal the Lower Cretaceous sands and clays.

The soil patterns are a close reflection of the solid and drift geology. To the north, plateau tops are dominated by light, chalky soil. On the west scarp edge there is a striking variation of colour and texture reflecting the underlying Red Chalk and Lower Cretaceous beds. To the south-east the clayey tills give rise to heavy, seasonally waterlogged soils whereas near the Lymn Valley, Spilsby Sandstone provides the parent material for well-drained, sandy loams. In the Bain Valley there are deep, coarse permeable loams except where the presence of Jurassic Kimmeridge Clays gives rise to localised wet areas.

Despite the overall cohesive character of the Wolds, variation in the underlying geology has led to some distinct subdivisions within the landscape. The pronounced and sinuous north-west-facing chalk scarp which runs from South Ferriby, on the Humber, down to North Willingham is steep and hummocky, and lined by compact springline villages at the foot of the slope. Rough pasture, scrub and woodland areas clothe the scarp, along which there are dramatic views. The high, open arable plateau of the Wolds themselves stretches from the Humber down past Louth. Within this upland rolling plain are a series of inward-facing valleys, for example at Rothwell and Cuxwold on Laceby Beck. The planting of woodland on the steep slopes serves to emphasise the valley features. A series of villages are located in the dry valleys which face eastwards. Another distinct area of the NCA are the ridges and valleys of the south-west, marking the edge of the chalk outcrop. Between the villages of Donington on Bain and Tetford, an internal escarpment faces south-west overlooking ridges of glacial drift and valleys cut into sandstone. Three rivers, the Bain, Waring and Lymn, drain southwards through these valleys. River valley floors are marshy and alder carr woods are common. In the south-east claylands, the chalk ridge is masked by clay till which creates more rounded forms as the Wolds drop away to the Middle Marsh around Alford. Ancient oak and ash woodlands give this area a distinctive feel.

Some 18 main-stem rivers such the Great Eau, Waring, Bain and Lymn rise in the Wolds and are important for their biodiversity.

Springs, which originate from the chalk aquifer that underlies the higher parts of the Wolds, are common and the resulting chalk streams provide internationally rare priority habitat. Wild brown trout, European eel, grayling and brook lamprey are present in the streams, as well as otter, water vole, kingfisher, rare invertebrates including flatworm species, and the plants arrowhead and water crowfoot.

Woodland cover in these areas is sparse, particularly to the north, while to the south sinuous beech woods and younger mixed plantations follow the steeper slopes of the deep valleys. Isolated beech and ash trees form occasional markers. On the north-west scarp there is a mixed pattern of woodland, scrub and pasture created by the hummocky landform and poorer nature of the soils. The extensive mixed woodlands of the Brocklesby Estate to the north-east provide the other major area of woodland cover. Here some 1,200 ha of woodland were planted between 1750 and 1950. The alder carr woodlands on the heavy, seasonally waterlogged clay soils in the south are important nationally, as is the ancient woodland at Tetford. A number of moth species visit the woodland and the numbers of butterflies are showing signs of recovery.

This is an important food producing landscape and the rural economy is mainly based on arable farming with large cereal units together with some pasture land. Large rectilinear fields on the rolling plateau are enclosed by hawthorn hedges. To the south-west there is a more complex pattern of medium-sized irregular fields where grazing combines with crop cultivation. Pasture is less common now but livestock and sheep in particular have traditionally had great importance in the area. The large Lincoln Longwool sheep, which is now a rare breed, has a long association with the Lincolnshire Wolds. Grassland remains an important land use where mixed farming occurs and provides an important farmland habitat. Semi-natural habitats within this NCA are important because of the geology but the extensive arable areas mean that there are limited semi-natural habitats remaining. Isolated chalk grasslands located on the steepest uncultivated slopes and the broad, herb-rich road verges along ancient trackways and drover roads provide species-rich grassland habitats. Further important pockets of grassland occur in the churchyards and redundant quarries and pits found across the Wolds. Hedgerows provide linear habitats and these and other farmland habitats are important for farmland birds, with a nationally important ‘Arable Assemblage East Midlands’ including breeding lapwing, turtle dove and yellow wagtail.

The whole area is rich in archaeological remains, including ancient trackways, tumuli along the scarp and a high concentration of deserted medieval villages. Bronze-age round barrows and an important collection of Neolithic long barrows are located on thin chalk soils on the edges of escarpments and ridges.

Long barrows are particularly vulnerable to damage from cultivation and these earthworks are especially notable as they are ancient and very rare. Significant archaeological sites including the Neolithic long barrows continue to be at risk from arable cultivation, and remain on the Heritage at Risk register.

Georgian manors and parkland, avenue tree plantings and wide roadside verges are also distinctive features. There are no great parklands but a series of smaller estates, for example at Harrington and South Ormsby. These often include gracious but modest Tudor or Georgian country houses with Victorian farmsteads and farm workers’ cottages. Bolingbroke Castle, the birthplace of Henry IV, is now in ruins but occupies a prominent setting at the foot of the southern sandstone scarp.

Sparsely settled, the NCA’s distinctive topography and underlying geology act to hide the villages within the folds of this east Lincolnshire landscape and church spires characteristically rise out of the rolling landscape. The settlement density is marginally higher in the south-west river valleys while on parts of the high Wold there is no settlement. In the north the villages are simple and nucleated while in the south a rectangular plan is found with lanes enclosing a central area of cottages, farmhouses and paddocks in villages such as Old Bolingbroke. Settlements tend to follow physical features, such as the foot of the north-west scarp as at Tealby and Claxby, or the deep valleys within the chalk uplands as at Rothwell. There are no major urban areas within the Wolds but a series of small market towns lie at the foot of the hills including Horncastle, Spilsby, Louth and Caistor.

The area is not distinguished by a unified pattern of building material or style. Brick walls with pantile roofs are most common in domestic buildings. The varied geology is reflected in the variety of local material typically found as building material, particularly in many churches and older buildings; this includes Tealby Limestone, Spilsby Sandstone and local ironstones. Newer building has occurred near Binbrook where extensive housing was introduced to serve the airfield.

Large chalk quarries existed in the north of the Wolds at South Ferriby and Melton Ross and to the south at South Thoresby, and mineral extraction continues, albeit on a relatively small scale.

The road network generally follows ancient east–west routes across the Wolds and the A roads are particularly busy in the high season with tourists visiting the coastal resorts; the M180 in particular causes intrusion.

Visitors come to the area, especially in the summer months when they visit the nearby East Coast and the Lincolnshire Wolds. Located on the edge of the Wolds, market towns such as Louth (just beyond the NCA) with its steepled church attract tourists. The network of footpaths attracts walkers to the area and the annual Lincolnshire Wolds Walking Festival is a popular attraction for both residents and visitors. The Viking Way long-distance footpath which starts at the Humber passes through the area towards Rutland. Cycling is another popular pastime in the Wolds and the National Cycle Network passes through the NCA. Motorcyclists are also attracted to the relatively quiet roads of the Wolds and to the circuit at Cadwell Park.

The landscape through time

The Wolds are predominantly a dissected chalk table, falling gently eastwards from a western scarp face. The bedrock was laid down in marine conditions over a period of some 60 million years during the Upper Jurassic and Cretaceous periods. The lowest exposed rocks include the Jurassic Kimmeridge Clay which passes upwards into the younger Spilsby Formation; this predominantly consists of sandstones and spans the transition from the Jurassic to the Cretaceous period. Above this is the Lower Cretaceous Tealby Formation made up of clays and sandy limestone and ironstones. The Chalk, including the characteristic Red Chalk, is the youngest solid rock in the NCA (95 million years old) and is made up of millions of microscopic marine creatures. The solid geology of the area has since been extensively shaped to create the varied geology and landform that exist today. The bedrock was extensively moulded by glacial and periglacial action during the last ice age, when the drainage pattern was altered by the deposition of sands, gravels and clay till. The previous pattern of eastward drainage was locally blocked by ice tills which resulted in the cutting of several glacial meltwater channels, particularly in the south. Glaciers stripped away the chalk to expose Lower Cretaceous and even a few Upper Jurassic Kimmeridge sands, clays and ironstones, and shape the prominent west-facing chalk escarpment which dominates much of the area. The exposed Spilsby Sandstone to the south formed localised pockets of acidic soil with the clays producing seasonally waterlogged areas.

The area has a long history of farming as a result of its easily-worked chalk soils and loams. The present landscape of the Wolds is primarily the result of the enclosure of a largely typical open-field farming regime, and the subsequent changes to the associated nucleated settlement pattern. The earliest enclosures are to be found in close proximity to historic settlements. This is quite common in Lincolnshire and represents an historic trend from arable farming to livestock rearing. Typically this was undertaken in order to raise sheep for wool production, which could then be sold. However, in the Wolds, these ancient enclosures are both more extensive than in the county as a whole, and more widespread, indicating that livestock made a proportionally larger contribution to the medieval economy.

Later enclosure typically follows the same planned form as elsewhere in the county. The pastoral history of the area has historically been closely allied to the fortunes of the neighbouring marshes and fens. In the later medieval period, and in the postmedieval period, wealthy Wold’s farmers would rent grazing land on the marshes in order to fatten their stock on the rich grasslands close to the sea. The many east-west aligned roads and tracks, perhaps initially intended to provide access to the coastal salt industry, would have served as drove roads taking livestock between the two areas.

Visible archaeology today includes the many barrows which cap the hill tops, such as Six Barrows at Tathwell. It is the Neolithic long barrows found in this location that are particularly notable – they are very rare because of their great age. Located on thin chalk soils on the edges of escarpments and ridges, they are particularly vulnerable to damage from cultivation; they are often, however, found under arable cultivation and are therefore at high risk on the Heritage at Risk register.

The Lincolnshire Wolds have produced evidence of human remains in the 1,000-year-old burial site at the Saxon church at Barton-upon-Humber. The significance of these remains lies in their representation of the pathology of an isolated community from circa 950 AD onwards.

In the Neolithic period, early settlement concentrated on the highest, drier ground of the high Wolds. Later, in the Bronze and Iron Ages, settlement extended onto chalk in the southern Wolds, for example at Skendleby. From the Iron Age the chalk uplands had a well-established network of trackways; High Street and Bluestone Heath Road are examples of this. Many of the roads are still in use, for example Caistor High Street linking Horncastle and Caistor. These two important market towns were fortified in Roman times. Roman occupation was equally widespread, linked by major roads and by east-west tracks related to the coastal salt industry.

The area’s village-based settlements have their origins in the late first millennium AD, many bearing Saxon or Danish place name elements. Village names with ‘ham’ or ‘ton’ are probably Saxon, while names ending in ‘by’ or ‘thorpe’ are of Danish origin. Depopulation of the Wolds villages began early, partly owing to epidemics and poor harvests in the 14th century, and partly through the actions of powerful landowners keen to turn arable land to pasture in order to capitalise on the value of sheep rearing in the 15th and 16th centuries. As a result of all these changes the mixed arable and grazing landscapes of the earlier medieval period gave way to extensive enclosed pasture from the 16th century onwards into the early 19th century.

There is evidence of a relatively high number of deserted (and shrunken) medieval villages across the Lincolnshire Wolds providing an insight into the area’s interesting history. There are over 100 abandoned settlements, with this being one of the highest concentrations in the country. Remnants of ridge and furrow can also be seen, showing a legacy of medieval ploughing and cultivation in an open field system. Another aspect of the historic environment is numerous moats indicating a defensive purpose such as the medieval moated site at Brinkhill or as a status symbol.

Monasteries were once situated on the edge of the Wolds (for example North Ormsby) and evidence of priories can also be found (such as Orford Priory) with many of the Wolds’ churches demonstrating the prosperity of the area when they were built. One source of income for priories was farming, particularly sheep for wool. The Dissolution of the Monasteries brought this era to an end around 1536 and caused the break-up and sale of former monastery land to wealthy individuals and hence the rise of post-16th century small estates.

A period of enclosure in the 17th century was concerned with improving arable production and between 1760 and 1850 the landscape was transformed by the Parliamentary enclosures, sweeping away the common pasture and huge open fields. Miles of hawthorn hedges were planted to enclose large rectilinear fields, and new Georgian manors, parks and farmsteads were created away from the villages. For example, the Brocklesby Estate’s 400-ha park and woodland were laid out in 1770s by Capability Brown. Through a new interest in hunting and shooting, shelterbelts and avenues were planted in the open landscapes, while broad drove roads up to 20 m in width were created to provide grazing for sheep headed for the coastal grazing marshes. The lustre wool from Lincoln Longwool sheep was much prized and was also exported. The development of estates continued through the Victorian period and is evidenced by estate workers’ cottages such as those at Wold Newton. These changes have made the Wolds into one of the most distinctive estate landscapes of the Agricultural Revolution in England, broadly comparable in terms of the date of the changes and their patterns (large fields and courtyard-plan farmsteads) with the Yorkshire Wolds to the north.

The area still retained a substantial number of villages until the final phase of enclosures in the later 18th and early 19th centuries, maintaining a sparse and dispersed settlement pattern, especially on the high Wolds. In the north the villages remained simple and nucleated while in the south a rectangular plan with lanes enclosing a central area of cottages, farmhouses and paddocks emerged, now seen in villages such as Old Bolingbroke. Owing to the varied geology, the Wolds did not develop a unified pattern of building materials or styles. The local chalk was generally a poor building material, being crumbly and weak, but was used in medieval buildings such as the the now ruined church at Calceby (meaning the farm or small settlement on the Chalk), later being replaced by brick or other stone. In the north-west, the locally quarried Tealby Limestone and Claxby Ironstone were used and at Nettleton, where the buildings are a rich ochre colour, ironstone was utilised. To the south, the distinctive green or brown Spilsby Sandstone, although rather soft, was used in the more ornate 14th- and 15th-century churches built with the wealth of the wool industry. For domestic buildings, brick and render walls with pantile roofs were preferred. The Louth architect James Fowler is noted for his work in local churches, particularly at Binbrook and Ludford.

Pasture was important for cattle and sheep and ley pasture rotation was once common practice, although it is now rare. Changes in farming practice in the 20th century further altered the farmed landscape of the Wolds. This involved a shift to an even larger scale of arable production, often with significant loss of habitats such as unimproved grasslands, hedges, streams, ponds and woodland copses. While most permanent calcareous grassland disappeared during the period of the Enclosure Acts, the decline continued in the 20th century through a combination of ploughing, agricultural ‘improvement’ and neglect leading to scrub encroachment. As a result, some of the best surviving grassland habitats are restricted to the wide roadside verges.

Aside from agricultural intensification, 20th-century influence has been less marked than that of preceding years, but includes military land use – most notably airfields such as Binbrook (owing to its good drainage), many of which continued in use into the Cold War period, and the late 1930s radar station at Stenigot. Wartime airfields were often developed for industrial purposes. Humberside International Airport, previously RAF Kirmington, was extended in 1992 and has seen significant growth in cargo throughput and general aviation activity. There is a national motor racing circuit at Cadwell Park.

Following a number of years of consultation and landscape assessments, a large proportion of the Wolds was designated as an AONB in 1973. This ensured national recognition and protection on account of the area’s natural beauty – comprising its wildlife, physiographic, cultural and heritage features, all of which combine to create the area’s unique sense of place.

The main roads are generally A roads, including the A16 on the eastern edge; there is also the M180, which opened in 1979. To the north the rail networks cross the area with stations at Barton-upon-Humber and Barnetby le Wold.

Other modern impacts include infill housing, quarrying and the construction of irrigation reservoirs to support cropping. Telecommunications masts and power cabling infrastructure have had significant impacts on the visual character of the area. Sourcing renewable energy has led to wind farms adjacent to the NCA and singular/paired wind turbines are a more recent issue.

The areas of land planted for biofuels and biomass have increased in recent times to supply anaerobic digesters and power plants located on the Humber.

In the agricultural landscape many areas have been brought under Environmental Stewardship, which has led to improved management of sites. Since 2000 data shows a dramatic increase in managed boundary features with 1,877 km under Environmental Stewardship options, mainly through the Entry Level Scheme (2011). The total length of hedgerow being managed has increased, resulting in tightly cropped hedges filling out and becoming taller and wider.