National Character Area 15

Durham Magnesian Limestone Plateau - Key Facts & Data

Landscape and nature conservation designations section contains a map

Note that numbers and figures in the body of the text are based on the 2014 profiles, unless otherwise stated. The maps contain live frequently updated datasets.

There are no National Parks or Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty in this NCA. 14 km of the coast falls within the Durham Heritage Coast (Natural England 2011).

Relationship with the coast
The adjacent coastline is covered by the following Shoreline Management Plans:

  • Northumberland and North Tyneside: River Tyne to Flamborough Head

The adjacent coastline includes the following Marine Plan – Marine Character Areas (MCAs):

  • Tyne, Tees and Wear Estuaries and Coastal Waters


Designated nature conservation sites

The NCA includes the following statutory nature conservation designations (Natural England, Special Protection Areas; Special Area of Conservation; Ramsars; National Nature Reserves; Sites of Special Scientific Interest and Local Nature Reserves, 2021):

Please note: (i) Designated areas may overlap (ii) all figures are cut to Mean High Water Line, designations that span coastal/marine areas below this line will not be included.

Condition of designated sites
All designated sites within England are covered by Sites of Scientific Interest (SSSI) units. The condition to these SSSI units within the NCA are as follows (Natural England, Sites of Special Scientific Interest Units, 2021; 2023):



Landscape and nature conservation designations map for NCA15

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Landform, geology and soils section contains a map

Note that numbers and figures in the body of the text are based on the 2014 profiles, unless otherwise stated. The maps contain live frequently updated datasets.

Elevation

Elevation ranges from sea level along the coast to a maximum of just over 200m on the limestone plateau which extends south-westwards from the North Sea coast. The average elevation of the landscape is 98m above sea level (Natural England, 2010; Durham Magnesian Limestone Plateau Countryside Character Area description).

Landform and process

The area is dominated by the undulating Magnesian Limestone plateau which dips gently towards the east from a west facing escarpment. Natural outcrops of Magnesian Limestone occur along the west facing escarpment, valley sides and denes and, most spectacularly, along the coast where it continues to erode into a series of bays, headlands and stacks such as Marsden Rock. Coastal ‘denes’ (deeply incised gorges) cut into the eastern edge of the plateau. Post glacial deposits of wind-blown sand form dunes along the coast to the south.

In the Sunderland section of the NCA, a small proportion of the low lying Tyne-Wear floodplain occurs where the River Wear cuts into thick clay – locally dominant drift deposits of the Tyne-Wear complex. Manmade landforms are widespread throughout the NCA as a consequence of extractive industries, especially coal and limestone extraction (Durham Magnesian Limestone Plateau Countryside Character Area description;
Durham Magnesian Limestone Plateau Natural Area Profile).

Bedrock geology

Magnesian Limestone occupies the whole of the NCA, deriving from sedimentary processes dating from the Permian period. Ninety per cent of this limestone is obscured by glacial drift deposits; surface outcrops cover only 0.1 per cent of mainland Britain, the majority of which are found within this NCA. Natural rock outcrops occur mostly in the low coastal cliffs and west facing escarpment. The complex nature of the Magnesian Limestone in the NCA is derived from a series of sedimentation events, culminating in distinct layers of Magnesian Limestone, classified as Lower, Middle and Upper Magnesian Limestone. The Upper Magnesian Limestone formation along the coast is distinctly categorised into three formations: Concretionary limestone’s and “cannonball” rock; Hartlepool and Roker dolomites and The Sea formation. A breakdown of solid geology as a proportion of total land area is as follows: 54 per cent Dolomitic limestone and argillaceous rocks; 32 per cent Dolomite rock; 9 per cent mudstone, siltstone and sandstone and 4 per cent sandstone (Durham Magnesian Limestone Plateau Countryside Character Area description; Durham Magnesian Limestone Plateau Natural Area Profile; British Geological Survey maps; Natural England, 2010).

Superficial deposits

The Magnesian Limestone is generally obscured by a thin layer of glacial deposits; thick drift deposits of up to 100m depth are found in the south of the NCA. There are also deposits of more recent alluvial sediments associated with the river systems, such as the River Wear sand and gravels (Durham Magnesian Limestone Plateau Countryside Character Area description; Durham Magnesian Limestone Plateau Natural Area Profile; British Geological Survey maps; Natural England, 2010).

Designated geological sites

The NCA includes the following geological sites (Natural England, Geological and Mixed Sites of Special Scientific Interest, 2021):

wdt_ID NCA_ID NAME NCAAreaHa Interest type Area (ha) 2021 Percent of NCA (2021) Count
2361NORTH NORTHUMBERLAND COASTAL PLAIN37,669.6Geological6.80.01
2371NORTH NORTHUMBERLAND COASTAL PLAIN37,669.6Mixed1,029.52.75
2382NORTHUMBERLAND SANDSTONE HILLS72,694.6Geological45.40.14
2393CHEVIOT FRINGE51,591.3Geological17.10.02
2404CHEVIOTS36,487.9Geological165.00.52
2414CHEVIOTS36,487.9Mixed3,488.99.61
2425BORDER MOORS AND FORESTS127,155.9Geological85.70.18
2435BORDER MOORS AND FORESTS127,155.9Mixed35.80.01
2446SOLWAY BASIN98,350.4Geological7.20.02
2456SOLWAY BASIN98,350.4Mixed5,569.25.74

Soils and Agriculture Classification

There are 9 main soil types identified within the area:

Rendzinas, found mainly on the higher summits of the escarpment and steep slopes where Magnesian Limestone is exposed at the surface and where glacial drift deposits are thin. These soils characteristically support an abundance of lime-loving plants and are directly associated with most of the remaining areas of limestone grassland.

Brown calcareous earths resulting from glacial drift deposits found at base of steeper slopes. Typically well drained, these deep calcareous soils produce the best grade of agricultural soils in the area.

Typical brown earths form well drained soils over non-calcareous parent rock, linked to glacial deposits, noticeably in vicinity of the Ferry Hill Gap. They are agriculturally productive if managed correctly.

Stagnogleyic brown earths developed where drainage Now impeded. They are mainly found to the north and east of the NCA.

Cambic stagnogleyic soils occur where the typography is subdued and drainage is poor as a result of poor soil structure on clay loams. They are prone to seasonal water logging. This soil type is common over thicker drift deposits in the south-west of the NCA.

Cambic-humic- alluvial gleys are found in areas with high groundwater tables, such as the Wear and Skerne flood plains with alluvial or lacustrine deposits. Due to water logging their use is often limited to summer stock grazing.

Peat occurs in the lowest areas of alluvial and lacustrine deposits in the south- west part of the NCA. This soil type is now restricted to small irregular patches.

Raw sands are limited to unstable skeletal soils along the coast north of Hartlepool. These soils are very mobile and susceptible to wind blow, yet only penetrate less than 95m inland.

Raw alluvial soils are poorly developed soils mainly limited to the valley floors of Wear and Skerne (Natural England 2012).

The main grades of agricultural land in the NCA are broken down as follows (as a proportion of total land area) (Natural England, Provisional Agricultural Land Classification, 2019):

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Landform, geology and soils map for NCA15

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Key waterbodies and catchments section contains a map

Note that numbers and figures in the body of the text are based on the 2014 profiles, unless otherwise stated. The maps contain live frequently updated datasets.

Major rivers/canals

The following major rivers/canals (by length) have been identified in this NCA (Natural England, data informing the 2014 National Character Area Profiles, 2010):

wdt_ID REF_CODE NAME_1 Name Length (km) SumOfShape_Length
11NORTH NORTHUMBERLAND COASTAL PLAINRiver Aln7.67,587.2
21NORTH NORTHUMBERLAND COASTAL PLAINRiver Coquet5.55,516.0
31NORTH NORTHUMBERLAND COASTAL PLAINWhiteadder Water2.92,904.9
410NORTH PENNINESBlack Burn11.911,853.4
510NORTH PENNINESCroglin Water10.010,042.3
610NORTH PENNINESCrowdundle Beck4.34,337.4
710NORTH PENNINESDevil's Water20.520,464.6
810NORTH PENNINESHarwood Beck9.79,740.2
910NORTH PENNINESRiver Allen4.94,889.0
1010NORTH PENNINESRiver Derwent15.315,268.4

Please note: other significant rivers (by volume) may also occur. Tidal stretches of rivers are not included, which may include some major rivers.

Two main rivers dissect the NCA, the River Wear to the north, which flows east to meet the North Sea at Sunderland and the River Skerne, which flows south to meet the River Tees. The limestone scarp is dissected by many minor streams, and the plateau cut by deep gorges at the coast. The main rivers running through this NCA are captured under a programme of condition assessment and priority assessment of riparian and wider catchment features under the Defra and Environment Agency Northumbria River Basin District Management Plan

Water quality

Nitrate Vulnerable Zones (NVZs) are areas designated as being at risk from agricultural nitrate pollution. These can impact surface water (waterbodies and waterways located above ground) and groundwater (water bodies and waterways located below ground).

Waterbodies such as lakes can also be designated as “eutrophic waters” if the enrichment of the waterbody by nitrate pollution causes accelerated growth of algae, impacting the quality of the water and the balance of organisms within it.

The following NVZs are located within the NCA (Environment Agency, Nitrate Vulnerable Zones Designations, 2021):

Water framework directive

River basin management plans cover river basin districts and describe the challenges that threaten the water environment and how these challenges can be managed and funded. The plans include the classification of water quality of surface waters and ground waters.



Click on the Water Framework Directive layers on the below map to view the corresponding river names.

Key waterbodies and catchments map for NCA15

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Trees and woodlands section contains a map

Note that numbers and figures in the body of the text are based on the 2014 profiles, unless otherwise stated. The maps contain live frequently updated datasets.

Total woodland cover

Ancient woodland is any area that has been wooded continuously since at least 1600 AD. National Forest Inventory (NFI) woodland includes all forests and woodlands (0.5 hectares and over). The total woodland cover within the NCA is as follows (Forestry Commission, National Forest Inventory, 2020; 2023; Natural England, Ancient Woodland, 2021; 2024; this does not consider Natural England’s ‘Ancient Woodland – Revised (England) – Completed Counties’ data as this is being updated in tranches and no full dataset is yet available):

Distribution and size of woodland and trees in the landscape

The NCA is generally sparse in woodland cover and there are few hedgerow trees. Broadleaved woodlands survive mainly on steeper uncultivated slopes including the scarp. The majority of woodlands are under 20 ha in size. Ancient semi-natural woodlands are particularly concentrated along the steep-sided coastal denes, for example Castle Eden Dene. Occasional broadleaved woods and exotic plantings are found within parkland and country estates, for example Elemore to the west of Haswell. Woodlands comprise ash and hazel, with occasional field maple and yew on thin limestone soils and oak on deeper soils. There are limited areas of mixed woodland (Durham Magnesian Limestone Plateau Countryside Character Area Description).

Woodland types

A statistical breakdown of the area and type of woodland found across the NCA is detailed below (Forestry Commission, National Forest Inventory, 2020; 2023):

Area and proportion of ancient woodland and planted ancient woodland sites (PAWS) within the NCA (Natural England, Ancient Woodland, 2021; 2024):


Trees and woodlands map for NCA15

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Boundary features and patterns

Note that numbers and figures in the body of the text are based on the 2014 profiles, unless otherwise stated.

Boundary features

Low, frequently gappy hedgerows enclose most fields across the NCA. Hedgerows are characteristic in having few hedgerow trees. The NCA has a higher than national average uptake of agri-environment schemes with hedgerow management options, both for maintenance and new planting (Durham Magnesian Limestone Plateau Countryside Character Area description; Countryside Quality Counts 2003; Natural England 2011).

Field patterns

Large regular fields of 17th century enclosure and 18th century Parliamentary enclosures dominate. Peri-urban pressures have led to a break up of larger fields and have led to a mosaic of pony paddocks and allotments around larger settlements (Durham Magnesian Limestone Plateau Countryside Character Area description; Countryside Quality Counts 2003).

Agriculture section contains a map

Note that numbers and figures in the body of the text are based on the 2014 profiles, unless otherwise stated. The maps contain live frequently updated datasets.

The following tables provide the most recently available statistics from Defra on agriculture within the NCA.

Farm type

The following farm types are located within this NCA (Defra, Structure of the agricultural industry in England and the UK at June, 2025):

Farm size

The following table outlines the sizes of farms within the NCA (Defra, Structure of the agricultural industry in England and the UK at June, 2025):

Farm ownership

The following table outlines the ownership of farms within the NCA (Defra, Structure of the agricultural industry in England and the UK at June, 2025):

Land use

The following table outlines the types of agricultural land use within the NCA (Defra, Structure of the agricultural industry in England and the UK at June, 2025):

Livestock numbers

The following livestock are farmed within the NCA (Defra, Structure of the agricultural industry in England and the UK at June, 2025):

Farm labour

The following table outlines the types of farm labour within the NCA (Defra, Structure of the agricultural industry in England and the UK at June, 2025):

Please note: (i) Some of the Census data are estimated by Defra so may not present a precise assessment of agriculture within this area (ii) Data refers to commercial holdings only (iii) Data includes land outside of the NCA where it belongs to holdings whose centre point is recorded as being within the NCA.



Note that the below map only shows agri-environment scheme coverage, and not other schemes.

Agriculture map for NCA15

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Key habitats and species section contains a map

Note that numbers and figures in the body of the text are based on the 2014 profiles, unless otherwise stated. The maps contain live frequently updated datasets.

Habitat distribution/coverage

Important fragmented areas of Magnesian Limestone calcareous grassland occurs on steep escarpment land and on cliff tops with unproductive soils. Unimproved neutral grassland, meadows, wetlands/reedbeds and heath, for example Hesledon Moor West SSSI, occur where the land is not cultivated, particularly on the plateau and coastal edge. Some areas of previously developed land and former colliery sites are important for the provision of mosaic habitats that are naturally colonising or for invertebrates such as the dingy skipper butterfly.

Maritime cliff and slopes cover a large area of the coast, with sand dunes at Crimdon Dene and South Shields, and the foreshore is important for wintering birds. Regionally important pockets of semi-natural ancient woodland occur within the coastal denes (Durham Magnesian Limestone Plateau Natural Area Profile).

Key Habitats

The NCA contains the following areas of key main habitats, as mapped by the national Priority Habitat Inventory (Natural England, Priority Habitats Inventory, 2021; 2024; Natural England, Wood Pasture and Parkland, 2020). Note: lakes and ponds were not included in 2021 data:






Key habitats and species map for NCA15

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Settlement and development patterns section contains a map

Note that numbers and figures in the body of the text are based on the 2014 profiles, unless otherwise stated. The maps contain live frequently updated datasets.

Settlement patterns

There are semi-rural agricultural villages in the south, often clustered around a grassy open space formerly used for the grazing and protection of livestock. A dominant pattern of 20th century coal mining villages has been superimposed onto the traditional settlement pattern; these are more numerous towards the coast. There are two notable planned ‘New Towns’ of Peterlee and Newton Aycliffe with distinct business, industrial and residential districts. There is widespread urban development with major infrastructure corridors and large industrial estates, with scattered mining towns and villages near the coast.

Limestone quarries are prominent on the escarpment and areas of derelict or recently restored colliery land lie close to settlements. The traditional villages of the plateau, which still have some local stone-built houses clustered around central greens, contrast with Victorian brick-built terraces (Durham Magnesian Limestone Plateau Countryside Character Area description; Countryside Quality Counts 2003).

Main settlements

The main Settlements within the NCA are: Sunderland, Hartlepool (part – northern Hartlepool), South Shields (southern part), Houghton le Spring, Peterlee, Newton Aycliffe, Seaham and Hetton le Hole. The total estimated population for this NCA (derived from ONS 2001 census data) is 440,527 (Durham Magnesian Limestone Plateau Countryside Character Area description; Countryside Quality Counts 2003, Natural England 2012).

Local vernacular and building materials

Traditional buildings are built of local Magnesian limestone for walls and slates for roofs. Contrasting uniform brick Victorian terrace houses with Welsh slate roofs are typical of the mining settlements, standing out in the rural landscape (Durham Magnesian Limestone Plateau Countryside Character Area description; Countryside Quality Counts 2003).

Settlement and development patterns map for NCA15

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Key historic sites and features section contains a map

Note that numbers and figures in the body of the text are based on the 2014 profiles, unless otherwise stated. The maps contain live frequently updated datasets.

Origin of historic features

Medieval agriculture Now mixed, producing grain and cattle for monastic estates. Farmsteads developed from 15th century on estates, and with enclosure of common fields from this period were either relocated to new sites or left in village centres.

While some courtyard farmsteads survive from the medieval period, more common are the mixture of linear farmsteads dating from late 17th century and the loose and regular courtyard layouts of late 18th and 19th centuries. Farming Now reorganised to match the demands and markets resulting from urban expansion, leading to larger farm units, operating on a semi-industrialised basis.

There are a large number of deserted medieval settlements, victims of post- medieval enclosure and reorganisation. Medieval settlement, essentially nucleated, Now re-written after the ‘Harrying of the North’. Planned villages were commonplace within the Palatinate of Durham, and survive best to the south of this character area.

The settled landscapes across the north of the area were transformed as industrial villages were established and expanded next to the collieries in the 19th century. These typically imported contrasting urban brick and Welsh slate terraces and rows into the rural landscape. There are a number of historic parklands and designed landscapes, including the 18th century Castle Eden.

There has been a long history of quarrying and mining associated with the area, expanding rapidly in the 18th century. Spoil heaps form distinctive landform features, and former quarries are now important both geologically and for nature conservation.

The Durham Coast railway line, originally constructed to transport coal, had an important influence on settlement (Countryside Quality Counts Draft Historic Profile, Durham Magnesian Limestone Plateau Countryside Character Area description).

Designated historic assets

The NCA includes the following designated historic assets (Historic England, National Heritage List for England, 2021; 2024):

Listed buildings

The NCA includes the following listed buildings (Historic England, National Heritage List for England, 2021; 2024):

Heritage at Risk Register

The NCA includes the following designated historic assets listed within the Heritage at Risk Register (Historic England, Heritage at Risk Register, 2021; 2023):



Key historic sites and features map for NCA15

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Recreation and access section contains a map

Note that numbers and figures in the body of the text are based on the 2014 profiles, unless otherwise stated. The maps contain live frequently updated datasets.

Public access
The following areas of public access for recreation are located within this NCA (Natural England, 2021; National Trust, 2021):


Please note: Public access areas may overlap.
The following linear routes or public access for recreation are located within this NCA (Natural England, 2021; Sustrans; 2021):

Recreation and access map for NCA15

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Experiential qualities

Note that numbers and figures in the body of the text are based on the 2014 profiles, unless otherwise stated.

Tranquillity

Based on the CPRE map of tranquillity (2006) it appears that the lowest scores for tranquillity are associated with the urban areas of Sunderland, Seaham, Peterlee, Hartlepool, Ferryhill and Newton Aycliffe. The highest scores for tranquillity are associated with the deep coastal denes and the higher ground of the limestone plateau.

A breakdown of tranquillity values for this NCA are detailed in the table below (CPRE, Tranquillity Map, 2006):

Dark skies

Light pollution is a generic term referring to artificial light that shines where it is neither wanted nor needed, and can impact on people’s experience of the countryside within the NCAs. CPRE host an interactive map, depicting the light pollution and dark skies within the NCA.

Intrusion

The 2007 Intrusion Map (CPRE) shows the extent to which rural landscapes are ‘intruded on’ from urban development, noise (primarily traffic noise), and other sources of visual and auditory intrusion. This shows a similar pattern to the Tranquillity Map, with the main areas of disturbed land associated with the urban areas of Sunderland, Seaham, Peterlee, Hartlepool, Ferryhill and Newton Aycliffe.

A breakdown of intrusion values for this NCA is detailed in the table below (CPRE, Intrusion Map, 2007):

Notable trends from the 1960s to 2007 are associated with urban, new housing developments, and industrial, business and small scale retail park encroachment. New road infrastructure linking Ryhope to Seaham also contributes.